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Die Primäre Tugend » Blog Archive » Il Gatto e la Volpe

Il Gatto e la Volpe

Law-BlogItalien ist ja – bekanntermaßen – ein Land voller Wunder nicht nur allgemein kultureller, sondern auch kulinarischer und marketingtechnischer Natur. Betrachten Sie etwa nachfolgendes Beispiel: die Osteria „Il Gatto e la Volpe“ – (der Kater und der Fuchs, im Volkmund auch: die Gazelle und das faule Zebra). Die findet sich in Orleggio, Via Nebulina 22.

Wenn Sie jetzt fragen, wo zur Hölle Orleggio liegt, dann offenbart das keineswegs einen Mangel an Bildung, sondern die völlig richtige Konzentration auf das Wesentliche. Die Stadt, unweit des aber eben nicht direkt am Lago Maggiore gelegen, ist wunderschön, gleicht aber letztlich allen Städten in Italien abseits der Touristenströme. Es gibt eine Herberge, an der ab 5.00 Uhr morgens die LKW vorbeidröhnen, einen Marktplatz mit zwei Pizzerien und einer Gelateria; eine Bar, in der man Abends seinen Spritz oder Sanbitter Orange trinkt und kein Mensch spricht irgend etwas anderes als Italienisch. Das ist ja auch gut so.

Bemerkenswert macht die Stadt – außer dem vor allem für Frauen wichtigen Umstand, dass sich hier ein Zagna-Outlet befindet – das Vorhandensein eben der Osteria mit Kater und Fuchs.

Nicht, dass man das Lokal fände, wenn man nicht schon weiß wo es ist. Kein Schild oder ähnliches deutet auf sein Vorhandensein in dem ohnehin sehr unscheinbaren Gässchen hin. Allein in der Tür ist eine (kleine, von wildem Wein überrankte) Glasscheibe eingelassen, in die äußerst unauffällig ein Hinweis eingeätzt ist. Außerdem trägt die Fußmatte das Logo und den Namen des Lokals. Die Matte liegt aber innen. Wenn man sie sieht, steht man also schon drin.

Hat man aber einmal den Fund gemacht, dann will man eigentlich auch schon gar nicht mehr gehen. Die ganze Osteria ist nämlich eine einzige Vorspeisenlandschaft, ein einziges Riesebuffet. Hier bekommt man nicht nur die üblichen Dinge, sondern auch Speisen, von denen ich jedenfalls bisher nicht wusste, dass es die in Italien auch gibt: ganz herzhafte, ungemein bodenständige Sachen. Schlackwurst auf Polenta oder Zungensalat, in Balsamico eingelegte Zwiebeln und jede Menge seltsame Dinge mit Spinat.

Sollte man wider Erwarten noch mehr essen wollen, so gibt es natürlich auch noch die üblichen Primi und Secundi Piatti, über die ich aber so unglaublich viel nicht sagen kann. Die Desserts jedenfalls sind fein und der Espresso ist so wie er in Italien sein muss: schwarz wie die Sünde, bitter wie das Leben und süß wie die Liebe.

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